Pézenas is not only the city of Molière, it is also the HQ of Matthieu de Lauzun. Established in a winery in the priory of Saint-Jean de Bébian, this venue provides a stage for the chef to roll out his manifold talents. A chic neoteric interior, done up in stone, wood and copper, provides the perfect foil to the chef’s delicate, tasty Mediterranean score, liberally scattered with childhood and globetrotting souvenirs. The Grenoble-style skate wing and its gribiche sauce are consummately curated, as are the chicken pastilla with marinated beetroot, a nod to the chef’s roots, and the Ségala veal with an aubergine and feta flan and a punchy red wine gravy. The sommelier can be relied upon to ply you with first-rate tips and to suggest inspired pairings from the extensive wine list.