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As you leave Zakynthos by the north, the large coastal plain is dotted with orchards and grey-watered salt marshes, bit by bit subsumed by seaside resorts. To reach the more unspoilt sites, continue beyond Alikes and Katastari before admiring the view of Kefalonia from Cape Skinari. At Volimes, the first (and highest) village in these upper reaches, you are greeted by locally made carpets, which are laid out for sale. Why not make a detour to visit the Monastery of Anafonitria (medieval tower)?