In the heart of Toulon, opposite the bronze statue Génie de la Navigation and in the shadow of the Frontale du Port (the 1950s listed buildings by Jean de Mailly that divide opinion), is chef Romain Janin's bistro. The menu celebrates the food culture of Provence, putting a twist on fresh local ingredients: Tamaris mussels au gratin; wild prawn ravioli; egg mayonnaise with summer truffles; courgette flower fritters; lamb shoulder confit; textures of beef tongue. Each plate is brimming with generosity and suggests savoir-faire to spare. The atmosphere here is relaxed and friendly, with service provided by staff who move between the cast-iron bistro tables and rattan chairs in sailor-style stripy T-shirts. A really great place that won't break the bank.