Although located in the same building as Chef Josiah Citrin's sister restaurant Mélisse, in lieu of its sibling’s tasting menu-only format, the offerings here afford more choice, with a modest prix-fixe alongside à la carte options. Chef Ken Takayama's cuisine sends forth signature combinations of French technique with an abundance of California's seasonal produce, focusing on updated takes on classically rooted flavors with modern, global touches. Spendthrifts will revel in the opulent caviar and truffle add-ons; but even without a dollop or shaving of luxury; the impressive cooking here, such as artichoke agnolotti with Comte and smoked barigoule is an indulgence, as is the Sonoma lamb loin with rosemary scented jus.