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Though rustic compared to high-end sibling Quince just next door, Michael and Lindsay Tusk’s casual offshoot would be elegant by any other standard. Exposed brick, a shiny copper chef's counter and bar, wooden tables...it's Italian to a T, and a hot-ticket reservation.

The space centers around an exhibition kitchen, from which crisp pizzas and hearty roasted meats emerge. The absolutely delicious menu highlights Chef Tusk’s pristine pastas, like agnolotti del plin, stuffed with tender rabbit, veal and pork. Seasonal starters are equally pleasing, like kale and radicchio salad in a tangy vinaigrette with hard-boiled farm egg and pecorino. The rustic plum and ginger torta is moist and delicious, but those ever-so-sweet, ripe plums steal the show.