You could wander in solo wearing flip-flops or pull up with a date in a dinner jacket. Nobody minds either way at Chef Danny Serfer’s oyster bar, which has lit up this corner of Edgewood since 2014 and sits directly across from the city cemetery. Once a 1930s gas station, this refitted space is retro-cool, thanks to warehouse floors, comfy booths and floor-to-ceiling windows. Standing under a vintage marquee that lists the day’s bivalves, chefs may be found shucking for a crowd that gets louder as the night moves on. Guests can make an entire meal out of oysters, but fantastic small plates, like the smoked fish dip served with buttered saltines or mussels cooked in a spicy tomato sauce, are entirely worth an order. Key lime pie is a sweet send-off.