With awnings stretching over the pavement and walls festooned with classic posters, Bellanger has the feel of a Parisian grand café. The cooking, however, looks more broadly to the Mediterranean for inspiration; the Italian influences are clear, with dishes such as chicken Milanese sitting alongside the ubiquitous French classics like steak frites. The vibe is very much that of a neighbourhood restaurant, despite a well-organised formality to the service, and the large cocktail bar is perfect for an aperitif.