This welcoming modern establishment, named after one of the chef’s forebears, is depicted by a trendy, casual vibe that mirrors its tattooed maestro. From his open-plan kitchen, Florian Poyet crafts a legible bistronomic score with a strong focus on the seasons: squid in parsley and garlic and white asparagus, Trièves lamb with wild garlic and black limes, slow-baked rhubarb and strawberries in Kampot white pepper…