Although the space itself isn’t exactly ritzy, top-flight service and indulgent cooking combine to make guests here feel like royalty despite the lack of luxury trimmings. Chef Alex Seidel is one of the Denver dining scene’s leading lights, at the vanguard of ingredient-centered eco-conscious cuisine. Whether it's a crisp golden-brown latke served with sweet onion creme fraiche and smoked trout roe, or impeccably seared scallops with creamy farro, the dishes here impress with their strong technique, pristine products and rich flavors, but an element of playfulness is also apparent, as in a fried maitake slider in the style of Nashville hot chicken. For an unfussy finale, chewy, crispy chocolate chip cookies, served warm and melty, are sure to satisfy.