The Hogsalt restaurant group isn’t known for restraint and this is certainly true of its latest venture—a saucy, Italian-American looker that goes full-speed ahead in its charming, throwback setting, with bold flavors and hearty portions. Pastas are made in-house, and first timers will want to sample the lasagna Bolognese rotolo, a creative riff on the classic and far lighter than it sounds. Chicken Parmesan is another favorite, but groups should also consider the vesuvio, a Chicago preparation that promises a juicy half-chicken with crisped skin and a moat of impossibly crispy potato wedges in white wine sauce. Stuffed? There must be dessert, especially that towering swirl of fior di latte gelato dusted in fennel pollen and drizzled with chestnut honey.