Veg, locally caught fish and fire are the raison d’être of this urban eatery at the end of Rue Dansaert. The menu sports a cornucopia of creative combinations and amusing textures that frequently astound. Examples include monkfish underscored by a fascinating butter and sake sauce, while fish liver, steamed in spinach leaf, further highlights the savoury notes and finely chopped lovage adds a powerful final flourish. Aster is well and truly in the zeitgeist thanks to wholehearted, big-boned flavours and perfectly judged nuances.