Arnaud Jourdan (stints in the kitchens of La Chassagnette and Les Maisons Rabanel) has adroitly taken over the reins of this bistro, which continues to serve indulgent market cuisine that is both simple and generous. Shining examples include the carpaccio of calf's head with ravigote sauce, the skate wing à la grenobloise with glazed radishes and the delicious chocolate mousse with black olives and fleur de sel. A buzzy, laid-back vibe and, true to its name (slang for "wine"), you can expect a fine selection of natural and biodynamic wines at reasonable prices.