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Although linked to Surabaya by a bridge since 2009, Madura has conserved its distinct character. Here, the volcanic landscape gives way to flat, dry terrain; the population of fishermen, salt-makers and cattle rearers has been traditionally Muslim since the 16C and the people are renowned for being shy. People come to Pamekasan every year (August-September) for Kerapan Sapi, the bull race, which is popular on the whole island. The coastal road takes you to great beaches.