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Twelve kilometres from Aqaba there unfurls a huge sandy beach strewn with coral detached from the reefs offshore. At the end of the week, locals come here in droves for family picnics, and the friendly atmosphere that quickly takes over the beach makes it a great spot to meet people. On the opposite shore rises the steep silhouette of the Egyptian Sinai. The main spectacle, however, lies beneath the waves. Just a few metres offshore you can see some extraordinary wildlife. Swimming goggles are all that is required, although glass-bottomed boat trips are on offer.